ADJUST MENT FOR ALTITUDE IN BOILING-WATER-BATH CANNER-Because air is thinner at higher altitudes, water boils at lower temperatures. The lower temperatures are less effective at killing bacteria. When canning in a water-bath canner at altitudes over 1,000 feet, the processing times must be increased for the safety of the product. Processing times for recipes are given for altitudes up to 1,000 feet. If you are processing foods at higher elevations, pleasue use the total time for your altitude that is provided in the recipe. As a general rule of thumb, you should add 5 minutes to the processing time if you are processing at 1,000-3,000 feet; add 10 minutes at 3,001-6,000 feet; add 15 minutes at 6,001-8,000 feet; and add 20 minutes above 8,000 feet. For canning using the low-temperature pasteurization process - 180F for 30 minutes - it is not necessary to add minutes to the processing time. Measuring the temperature naturally adjusts for the difference in altitude.
BRINED PICKLES-Back in the "good old days," a nickel bought a pickle, and one could reach down into a pungent wooden crock to fish for that tasty sour bargain. Though the pickle barrel has gone the way of the cracker barrel, and the old general store just isn't what it used to be, brined pickles are still made and enjoyed. Salt is the preservative for brined pickles. The vegetables - most often cucumbers or cabbage, but sometimes lettuce, turnips, or green beans - are cured for several weeks in either lower-salt brine (2-1/2 to 5 percent brine) or a high-salt brine (10 percent brine). Pickles cured in a lower-salt brine are ready to be eaten, stored in a cool place, or canned for long-term storage. Pickles cured in a 10 percent brine must be freshened (soaked in several changes of water) to remove the salt. Then they are used in recipes. Brining is a fermentation process. Bacteria generate lactic acid from the sugars stored in the vegetables. This lactic acid gives cured pickles a distinct, sharp flavor. Temperature is a factor in brining. Fermentation is ideal at temperatures between 70 and 75 F. Fermentation will be much slower at cooler temperatures. Adding acetic acid (vinegar) speeds up the brining process. Gas bubbles in the brine are a sign that fermentation is proceeding. Half-sour pickles are removed from the pickling brine after a few days, before fermentation is completed. That's one of the advantages of crock pickles; you can control the degree of sourness by controlling the length of time the vegetables ferment. Brining was once more popular than it is today. Busy farm wives probably found it easy to keep adding cucumbers to the crock as they ripened (and adding more salt to maintain the 10 percent brine - this can be done only for about 3 days; after that a new crock must be started). The cured vegetables were held in the brine for several weeks, until there was time to further process the pickles. In those days, kitchens were large work centers, and there was plenty of room to set cucumbers in crocks. When fermentation was completed, the crocks often were sealed with paraffin to protect the pickles from spoiling. Then they were stored in a cool, dark place. This high-salt brining process, paraffin-sealing, and storage method are no longer recommended. Today, most people prefer to brine their pickles in a low-salt, spiced brine. The completed pickles are then stored in the refrigerator or processed in a canner.
CANNING JARS AND LIDS-Modern screw-top canning jars (mason jars) with 2-piece lids are the preferred jars for canning. They come in regular and wide-mouth, which are slightly more expensive. I haven't found any genuine advantage to the wide-mouth jars, even when canning whole fruits and vegetables. Some people do find the wide-mouth jars more convenient than regular jars for packing whole pickles. Recycled commercial jars may not seal and may break, especially in a pressure canner. When a jar of food is heated, the contents of the jar expand and steam forms, forcing air out of the jar. (If you do not leave adequate headspace, liquid will be forced out, too.) As the contents cool, a vacuum is formed, and the rubber compound on the lid seals to the mouth of the jar. It can take as long as 24 hours for the jars to completely cool and seal. A jar is sealed when the lid is curved down in the middle. You can test a seal by inverting the jar or lifting it by the lid. Often, as the jars cool, you will hear them seal with a distinctive "kerplunk" sound. The dome lids cannot be reused, but the screwbands can be. Once the jar has sealed, it is a good idea to remove the screwband. This enables you to check for a good seal more easily. Also, screwbands will rust onto the jars if there is moisture in the air where they are stored. The USDA no longer recommends using bail-wire jars.
CROCKS-For slow-brined pickles, glass, food-grade plastic, or ceramic crocks are useful. Sometimes you can obtain 5-gallon plastic tubs from food franchises. One-gallon glass jars are also useful. To prepare a crock or jar for pickles, wash it well in soapy water, rinse, and then scald with boiling water.
EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST-Essentials: scrub brushes for washing produce, paring knives, chopping knives, vegetable peeler, 2-quart (or larger) colander food processor, food grinder, or food mill, chopping board, measuring cups and spoons, strainer, long-handled wooden cooking spoons, slotted spoons, and forks, timer, large, medium, and small stainless stell saucepans, wide-mouth funnel, water bath canner, 1-5 gallon crocks or jars, cheesecloth, potholders, jar lifter, plastic or wooden spatula, bubble freer, or chopsticks, lables (or freezer tape) and indelible pens, tongs, kitchen towels, food scale Equipment That's Nice to Have Around: grater, extra colanders, magnetic lid wand, candy or jelly thermometer.
FOOD PROCESSORS-I used to think that food processors were a luxury, until I watched Janet Chadwick prepare food for The Busy Person's Guide to Preserving Food. Not only do food processors save a tremendous amount of time, but they also give more uniform results, which usually improves the texture of the pickle. Among other tasks, food processors slice, chop, and grind-the main preparation chores of pickle making. I think food processors are invaluable. I favor the processors with the side discharge chutes. These machines discharge the sliced vegetables into whatever container you want, and they eliminate the frustrating step of emptying the processor bowl each time it fills, which is all too often. The side discharge chute will even discharge vegetables into a large measuring cup, and this is another nice time-saving feature. (It's a good idea to set the measuring cup on a plate to catch stray flying slices.) The thin-slice blade on many processors produces a uniformly thin pickle chip for bread and butter type recipes. The pickle chips that are thickly sliced always seem a little soggy compared to the thin slices. A thin slice has a greater proportion of crispy peel to soft flesh than a thick slice, so it always tastes crisper.
FRESH-PACK AND BRINING-Before you plunge into the recipes, please take time to review the methods of making pickles. Pickling, particularly fresh-pack pickling, is easy-almost no-fail. Slow-brining requires careful measuring and temperature control, but not hard work. Just follow these steps, one at a time. FRESH-PACK PICKLES: The majority of recipes are for fresh-pack pickles. They suit modern, busy lifestyles well. Fresh-pack pickles are made with fruits and vegetables that are prepared and packed raw into jars. Often the fruits and vegetables are salted and allowed and packed raw into jars. Often the fruits and vegetables are salted and allowed to stand for a few hours (short-brined) before going into the jars. This makes the pickles crisp. Then a boiling hot syrup or brine is poured over the fruits or vegetables. The jars are sealed and processed in a boiling-water bath. Here is how it is done. ORGANIZE YOURSELF: 1. Read the recipe first. THis is the step many people forget. With pickles, it is critical. Why go to all the brother of preparing vegetables and pulling the canner from the closet only to read that the vegetables must stand in a salt brine overnight, and you won't have time to finish the recipe in the morning? Know what you are getting into before you start. 2. Lay out all the equipment and ingredients you will need. WASH THE VEGETABLES AND FRUITS: 3. Wash the vegetables and fruits thoroughly. Scrub gently with a vegetable brush and wash under running water or in several changes of water. Always lift the fruits and vegetables out of the water; don't let the dirty water run out of the sink and redeposit dirt on the produce. 4. Drain the produce in a colander. PREPARE THE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES ACCORDING TO THE RECIPE: 5. Slice, dice, or chop the produce according to the recipe. 6. If the recipe calls for salting the vegetables or chilling in ice water, do so. Don't even consider skipping this step. The salt draws water from the vegetable, and the result is a much, much crisper pickle. The amount of time this step takes will vary. If your cucumbers are thinly sliced, a minimum of 1 hour will probably be sufficient if you are pressed for time. However, it is always best to follow the recipe exactly and not take shortcuts. PREPARE THE JARS AND PREHEAT THE CANNER: 7. Wash the canning jars, lids, and screwbands in hot, soapy water, and rinse well in scalding water. Unrinsed detergents may leave undesirable flavors or color on food. Scale or hard-water films can be removed by soaking the jars for several hours in a solution of 1 cup vinegar (5 percent acidity) per gallon of water. Filling the jars with hot water and covering them with more hot water in a large pot will protect them from airborne dust. These washing methods do not sterilize jars. Prepare the lids according to the manufacturer's directions. 8. If your recipe calls for sterilized jars, put them right side up on the rack in a boiling-water-bath canner and fill the canner and jars with hot (not boiling) water to one inch above the tops of the jars, bring the water to a boil, and boil for 10 minutes. Above 1,000 feet, add an additional minute for each 1,000 feet of altitude. Leave the jars in the water until you are ready to pack them. USDA recommends that you sterilize jars if you are processing pickles for less than 10 minutes. 9. Fill the canner half full with water and bring the water to a boil. Heat additional water in a tea kettle. PREPARE THE BRINE: 10. Combine the ingredients to make the brine or syrup, according to the recipe directions. Measure carefully. You may vary the amount of spices, but do not alter the quantities of vegetables, fruits, or vinegar. If the syrup or brine tastes too sour, add sugar. 11. Cook the brine or syrup, if necesary. PACK THE JARS: 12. Pack the fruits or vegetables firmly in the hot jars. Be careful not to pack too tightly. The brine must be able to circulate freely around the produce to ensure safety. Leave the amount of headspace indicated in the recipe. headspace is the gap left between the food and the rim of the jar. The vegetables and fruits should be packed just firmly enough to prevent them from floating once processed. A wide-mouth funnel and a wooden spoon help to pack the vegetables neatly and firmly. 13. Remove trapped air bubbles by running a bubble freer, or a wooden or plastic utensil, between the food and the side of the jar. This step is critical; relishes, julienne-sliced beets, pear and peach halves, and a score of other pickles trap large amounts of air as they are packed. Omitting this step may result in a bad seal. 14. Add more brine or syrup if necessary to maintain the proper amount of headspace. 15. Wipe the rim of the jars with a clean, damp cloth to remove any food particles. 16. Cover the jars with lids, pretreated according to the manufacturer's directions. Tighten according to manufacturer's directions. If no directions are given, tighten until you first meet resistance, then tighten another inch to inch and a half. PROCESS: 17. Set the jars in the preheated canner. The water in a boiling-water bath should be hot, not boiling. If the water is boiling, add a little cold water. Submerging a warm jar in boiling water may cause it to break. Set the jars on a rack in the boiling-water bath. Add boiling water to bring the water level to 1-2 inches above the tops of the jars. 18. Wait for the canner to come up to processing temperatures. In a boiling-water bath, this means wait until the water comes to boil. The only exception to this is when the low-temperature pasteurization method is indicated in the recipe. The processing times with these pickles begin when the water comes to 180F on a candy thermometer. 19. Process for the length of time indicated in the recipe, adjusting for altitude if necessary. When using low-temperature pasteurization, use a candy or jelly thermometer to be sure the water is gently boiling or at 180 F the entire time. Add more boiling water to a boiling or at 180 F the entire time. Add more boiling water to a boiling-water bath canner if necessary to keep the jars covered with 1-2 inches of water. COOL AND STORE: 20. When the processing time is up, remove the jars and set them on a towel or wooden rack away from drafts. Leave space between jars so air can circulate freely. 21. Allow the jars to cool undisturbed for 24 hours. 22. Test the seals. The center of the lid on the modern 2-piece screwband jars should be depressed. If you push on the center, it should not pop back. Remove the screwband. If you lift a sealed jar by the lid, it will hold. 23. Wash the jars. Lable with the date, recipe name, and processing information. Store the sealed jars in a cool, dark place. Store unsealed jars in the refrigerator and use within a couple of weeks. 24. Most pickles should be stored unopened for at least 6 weeks to allow them to develop their full flavor.
FRESH-PACK PICKLES-Allspice, ground and berries, Anise, Basil, Bay leaves, Caraway seeds, Cardamom, Cayenne, Celery leaves, Celery seeds, Chili powder, Cinnamon, ground and sticks, Cloves, ground and whole, Cumin, Curry powder, Dill seeds and heads, Fennel, Ginger, ground and crystallized, Juniper berries, Mace, Marjoram, Mint, Mixed pickling spices, Mustard seeds, Nutmeg, Oregano, Pepper, ground and whole, Rosemary, Summer savory, Tarragon, Thyme, Turmeric, plus garlic cloves, gingerroot, horseradish root.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES-The difference between a good pickle and a great pickle is usually the freshness of the ingredients used. Select young, or even slightly immature, fresh fruits and vegetables. Use only high-quality, unbruised produce. The less-than-perfect fruits and vegetables that you harvest or buy should be cooked and served promptly. Chill your produce as quickly and thoroughly as possible. This is particulary important with cucumbers if you want a crisp pickle - and who doesn't? Your fruits and vegetables will make crisper pickles if they are harvested early in the day, before they have been wilted by the heat of the sun. Then it is important to get that produce into the processor or the refrigerator as soon as possible. Ideally, you should process your pickles as soon as you harves. But this isn't always possible. If you are a gardener, you know that allowing a cucumber or squash to stay one extra day on the vne may result in an overgrown monster. You must harvest when the fruit is ready. In The Busy Person's Guide to Preserving Food (Storey Books), Janet Chadwick shares plenty of ideas for keeping produce chilled and fresh when the refrigerator is full. One idea I have found particularly useful is to layer the vegetables with ice in large food-grade plastic container or crock. Having enough ice on had is no problem. Chadwick suggests this method. Fill a boilable plastic freezer bag three-quarters full with cold tap water, hold the bag over the edge of a counter, and seal with an electric sealer. Or, seal the boilable plastic bags by placing them on a heavy towel, covering with a damp cloth, and pressing with a hot iron. Then freeze. The bags lie flat in the freezer and are ready when you need them. When the ice melts, pat the bags dry and return them to the freezer. This method of making ice is a lot more convenient than fussing with ice cube trays. When a recipe calls for soaking cucumbers in ice water, I use the boiling bag ice packs instead of ice cubes. I use a large bowl (or an extra canner) and layer the cucumbers and ice bags, covering with cold tap water. If your recipe doesn't call for soaking, don't do it. Vegetables and fruits can become waterlogged and lose crispness. In fact, don't even wash your produce until you are ready to pickle. If you must refrigerate or store your produce over ice, store it unwashed. If you don't grow your own produce for pickling, try to buy directly from local farmers, at roadside stands, or at farmers' markets; the produce will be fresher. If you buy your produce from the supermarket, beware of waxed fruits and vegetables. Supermarket suppliers coat produce with a thin film of wax to prevent moisture loss and to add a glossy shine to the product. Pickling brine cannot penetrate the waxy coating, and it is extremely difficult (perhaps impossible without scalding hot water) to remove the coating. Cucumbers, bell peppers, apples, oranges, grapefruit, lemons, grapes, plums, and cantaloupe are most commonly waxed. A SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT CUCUMBERS: Cucumbers specialize. There are pickling cucumbers and there are slicing cucumbers. Actually, it is not the cucumbers that specialize, it is the breeders of cucumbers that do. A good pickling cucucmber is thin-skinned and small. It may be warty. Gherkins, which are a type of pickling cucumber, have small burrlike fruits. Although gherkins won't get overly large on the vine, they will get tough and bitter. Unless harvested when very immature, slicing cucumbers will be larger than pickling cucumbers. You can eat pickling cucumbers in a salad, and you can pickle slicing cucumbers. I prefer to pickle pickling cucumbers, and I don't much care which cucumber I eat fresh. Slicing cucumbers, when still small, are acceptable for sliced pickles, such as bread and butters, and they are fine peeled and seeded in relishes, but they rarely make good dills. I don't recommend pickling slicing cucumbers. Instead, grow pickling cucumbers for pickling, cooking, and eating fresh. If you plan to grow your own cucumbers and are in doubt as to which varieties to select, ask a neighbor or your local county extension agent to recommend varieties that will do well in your area. Also, look for varieties with disease resistance.
GENERAL GUIDELINES-Always use stainless stell, glass, or ceramic pans, bowls, and utensils when making pickles. The salts and acids in pickles react with metals-particularly zinc, copper, tin, brass, galvanized stell, and iron - and will produce an off flavor. Having the right tool for each job will make pickling more rewarding. Sometimes having more than one of an item will make a big difference. Having several measuring cups, colanders, and cooking spoons will keep you from running back and forth to the sink, juggling ingredients from one container to another.
LOWER-SALT BRINING:-PREPARE THE VEGETABLES AND THE CROCK: 1. Wash the vegetables carefully. Be sure to slice off the blossom end of the cucumbers. The blossom end contains enzymes that can cause the pickles to soften if not removed. Drain dry. 2. Weigh your vegetables carefully. The weight will determine how much brine is required. 3. To wash the crock, scrub it well with hot, soapy water. Rinse with hot water and then scald with boiling water. Dry. PREPARE THE BRINE: 4. Prepare the brine according to the recipe directions. Measure carefully. PACK THE CROCK: 5. Layer the vegetables and spices in the crock according to the recipe. Leave at least 4 inches of space at the top of the crock. 6. Pour the brine over the vegetables. The brine should not be hot or it will kill off favorable bacteria. Make sure the brine covers the vegetables. If not, prepare and cool more brine. 7. Cover the vegetables with a plate or something similar to hold the vegetables under the brine. Weight the plate with a large clean rock or other heavy object. A glass jar filled with water works well. It is very important to keep the vegetables and the dill heads out of contact with the air. ALLOW THE PICKLES TO CURE: 8. Fermentation should begin within a couple of days. If you are looking for a half-sour pickle, taste after 3 days. Once the pickle is cured to your satisfaction, refrigerate to halt the fermentation. 9. Every day, remove the scum that forms on the top of the brine. 10. Fermentation is complete when gas bubbles stop rising to the top of the crock. This will happen sometime between the second and fourth weeks. Gently tap the side of the crock when checking for fermentation bubbles. 11. The safest way to keep your fermented pickles is to process them. Pack the pickles into clean, hot canning jars. Strain the brine and bring it to a boil. Pour the hot brine over the pickles, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Seal the jars. Process in a boiling-water-bath canner for 15 minutes (20 minutes for 1,001-6,000 feet and 25 minutes above 6,000 feet).
RELISHES AND CHUTNEYS-Relishes and chutneys are made just as fresh-packed pickles are. The main difference is that the vegetables are chopped or ground, rather than sliced or left whole. Often these sauces are cooked and packed hot into the jars.
SALT-Salt flavors and preserves. It plays a critical role in the pickling process. As a preserving agent, salt acts in two ways. First, salt draws moisture from food. This is why many pickle recipes, particularly cucumber pickle recipes, call for salting the vegetables. Water is drawn out of the cell walls by the salt, resulting in a crisper, firmer product. Salt also creates a hostile environment for microorganisms that may spoil foods. This is why the proportion of salt in most brined pickle recipes is critical. Old-time recipes sometimes call for "a brine strong enough to float an egg. "This is a 10 percent brine solution made by dissolving 1-1/2 cups of salt in 1 gallon of liquid. This is a very strong salt solution, and vegetables cured in a 10 percent brine must be "freshened," or desalted, in several changes of water before they are edible. My grandmother used to make legendary dill pickles in a crock. The recipe she handed down to me called for "enough salt until just before you gag." Apparently, she could swallow a lot more salt than I can before gagging, because my pickles made by her recipe spoil. The moral: Use modern recipes, and measure exactly. The type of salt used is critical. Table salt additives, which allow salt to flow more freely from salt shakers, will discolor pickles. Use only pure canning and pickling salt. Unless otherwise specified, the salt used in these recipes is granulated pickling salt. Sometimes recipes call for flaked pickling salt. For every cup of granulated pickling salt specified in a recipe. use 1-1/2 cups of flaked pickling salt. Store pickling salt in an airtight glass or plastic container. In the moist humid environment of most kitches, pickling salt that is left in its original heavy paper package will drink in the moisture from the air and turn into a solid lump. SALT AND HEALTH: When I tell people that I'm making pickles, some inevitably ask me hot I "fell about salt." They are referring to the connection between a high dietaary intake of sodium, which is a component of salt, and hypertension. I do worry about salt. Too much salt is known to cause hypertension, or high blood pressure is a major risk factior for developing heart disease. This is definitely cause for concern. Scientists disagree as to how much salt is too much. The U.S. Dietary Goals, created in 1977 by the U.S. Senate Select Committee on Nutrition and Human Needs and updated in 1995, recommend that adults limit their sodium intake by reducing consumption of salt to about 6 grams a day; that means 2,400 milligrams of sodium. How much sodium is contained in pickles? Addcording to the USDA Nutrient Database for Standard Reference, Release 14, a commericial processed dill pickle that measures 3-3/4 inches long, with a diameter of 1-3/4 inches, contains 833 milligrams of sodeium. A 1/2-cup serving of commercial chow-chow may containe anywhere from 600 to 1,500 milligrams of sodium, while a cup of sauerkraut will contain as much as 1,560 milligrams of sodium.
SAUERKRAUT IS A BRINED PICKLE-Sauerkraut is easy to make, keeps well, and is low in calories and delicious to eat. It can be made with green cabbage, as is traditional, or you can kraut red cabbage, head lettuce, Chinese cabbage, or even turnips (sauer ruben) or rutabagas. 1. Plan ahead. You will need 3 tablespoons of salt for every 5 pounds of cabbage. Figure that 8 pounds of cabbage will fill a 1-gallon jar; 40 pounds of cabbage will fill a 5-gallon crock, and about 1 pound of pickling salt will be required. Your will need a cutting board, scale, chopping knife or kraut slicer, large pan, measuring spoons, large clean crock or glass jars, tamper, plate, weight, and cover. 2. Use large firm heads of cabbage. Remove the outer leaves and any undesirable parts. Then cut into quarters and remove the core. 3. Slice the cabbage into long, fine shreds the thickness of a dime, using a sharp knife or a kraut cutting board. 4. Mix every 5 pounds of freshly cut cabbage with 3 tablespoons of pickling salt to each 5 pounds of cabbage. Measuring accurately is critical to the success of your product. 5. Pack the cabbage into clean containers, pressing firmly until salt draws from the cabbage and to remove air bubbles. Leave 4-6 inches between the top of the cabbage and the top of the crock. Wipe stray pieces of cabbage from the rim of the crock. If juice does not cover cabbage, add boiled and cooled brine (1-1 1/2 tablespoons of salt per quart of water). 6. Cover the cabbage so that no air is in contact with it. The eaiset way to do this is to fill a large plastic food-grade freezer bag with brine and set the bag over the kraut to fit tightly inside the container and cover the kraut completely. Double bagging will help prevent problems in case one bag leaks. If you weigh the cabbage down with a brine-filled bag, do not disturb the crock until normal fermentation is completed (when bubbling ceases). (The traditional method of covering the sauerkraut is to cover the cabbage with several layers of clean white cheesecloth and then weigh down the cloth with canning jars filled with water or a heavy weighted plate. The plate should be heavy enough so that the juice from the fermenting cabbage rises over it. Cover the container with a clean bath towel. If you use jars or a plate as weight, you will have to check the kraut 2 to 3 times each week and remove scum if it forms.) 7. Store at 70 to 75 F. while fermenting. At temperatures between 70 to 75 F, kraut will be fully fermented in about 3 to 4 weeks; at 60 to 65 F, fermentation may take 5 to 6 weeks. At temperatures lower than 60 F, kraut may not ferment. Above 75 F, kraut may become soft. 8. Fully fermented kraut may be kept tightly covered in the refrigerator for several months. You can also freeze or can your sauerkraut. To can, heat the sauerkraut slowly to boiling, stirring frequently. Pack hot into clean, hot quart jars, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Remove any air bubbles by running a bubble freer or a plastic or wooden spatula or chopstick between the sauerkraut and the inside of the jar. Seal. Process pints in a boiling-water-bath canner for 10 minutes; process quarts for 15 minutes. Begin counting time in the canner when the water returns to a boil. Adjust for higher elevations: 1,001-6,000 feet, 15 minutes; above 6,000 feet, 20 minutes for pints; 20 and 25 minutes for quarts.
SPICE AND HERB LIST-Allspice, ground and berries, Anise, Basil, Bay leaves, Caraway seeds, Cardamom, Cayenne, Celery leaves, Celery seeds, Chili powder, Cinnamon, ground and sticks, Cloves, ground and whole, Cumin, Curry powder, Dill seeds and heads, Fennel, Ginger, ground and crystallized, Juniper berries, Mace, Marjoram, Mint, Mixed pickling spices, Mustard seeds, Nutmeg, Oregano, Pepper, ground and whole, Rosemary, Summer savory, Tarragon, Thyme, Turmeric, plus garlic cloves, gingerroot, horseradish root.
SPICES AND HERBS-Spices and herbs are another area where the great pickle is distinguished from the good one. There are a few traditional spices when it comes to pickles: dill, mustard seeds, celery seeds, garlic, pepper, cloves, and mixed pickling spices. Far too few, in my opinion. Mints, summer savory, oregano, basil, fennel, caraway seeds, and tarragon also have their place in pickle mixes. It is very important to use fresh herbs and spices; once they age, berbs and spices take on a dusty attic flavor. It is a good idea to date your jars when you open them (or when you store your own freshly dried herbs). Then you know when it is time to throw out the old herbs and spices - 1 year after opening. Many of the pickling spices - mixed pickling spices, mustard and celery seeds, dill seeds, and peppercorns - are packaged in cardboard boxes which become wet easly. The spices will retain their quality longer if repackaged in glass jars. To obtain a clear pickle brine, use whole spices and herbs only: Ground spices and herbs will make the brine cloudy. If you are substituting ground spices for whole, use one-quarter as much. Since a clear brine is often preferred, many recipes call for tying up the herbs and spices in cloth bag and boiling in the syrup or brine. The bag is removed before the syrup, or brine, is poured into the jars. Cheesecloth and muslin work well, too. You can secure the spice bag by tying with thread or knotting the ends (it helps to have an extra large bag). If you don't have a cloth spice bag, try using a stainless stell tea ball instead. The tea ball is much easier to clean; it can be washed with the rest of your cooking utensils. There have been times when I haven't been able to lay my hands on either a tea ball or a cloth before adding spice to the jars. The brine is a bit more cloudy using this method, but it is not objectionable. If you are making a lot of pickles, you may find it economical to buy your spices and herbs in bulk; many food co-ops and health food stores offer bulk spices.
STEAM CANNERS VS. BOILING-WATER-BATH CANNER-In the old days of open-kettle canning, most people ladled their hot pickles and boiling hot brine into hot jars, topped with hot lids, and waited for the jars to seal themselves. Which they did, if care was taken to be sure that everthing was hot. Steam canners are not recommended. Processing times for use with various models of ordinary steam canners have never been adequately researched or standardized, and the steam does not always maintain a sufficient or even temperature. They only safe method for canning pickles is treatment in a boiling-water-bath canner, which consists of a large aluminum or porcelain-covered steel pot; a removable, perforated rack; and a fitted lid. The canner must be deep enough that one to two inches of briskly boiling water will be over the tops of the jars during processing. Canners are available in sizes large enough to hold eighteen pint jars in two layers or seven quart jars, while others may hold as little as eight to nine pints or four quarts. It is important to match the canner to the stove carefully. Most canners have ridged or flat bottoms. Either type can be used on a gas burner, but a flat bottom is necessary on an electric range. The canner should be no more than four inches wider in diameter than the element on which it is heated. Steam-pressure canners use a different process entirely; the pressure allows steam to reach and maintain a higher temperature than in ordinary canners. There are several types of dial-gauge or weight-control pressure canners that all work according to the same principle. They require more time to heat, pressurize, process, and cool before the jars can be removed and stored. While this very hot, pressurized steam is imperative for all low-acid fruits and vegetables, it is not really necessary for high-acid vegetables, such as pickles or tomatoes. When using steam-pressure canners, follow the manufacturer's directions carefully. Also, use only Mason jars in pressure canners; recycled jars from mayonnaise, peanut butter, and other commercial products are not sturdy enough and will probably shatter under pressure.
SWEETENERS-The standard sweetener in pickles is granulated white sugar; it does not affect the color of the finished product, nor does it impart a specific flavor. However, that doesn't mean that other sweeteners can't be used. Brown sugar is used in some of the overripe pickle recipes, as well as in some of the chutneys and relishes. When measuring brown sugar, be sure to pack each cup firmly. Honey or maple syrup is called for in a few recipes. You can substitute them on your own, but adjust the amounts used. The traditional formulas are 7/8 cup honey for every 1 cup white sugar called for in the recipe, and 3/4 cup maple syrup for every 1 cup white sugar. I have found that strongly flavored honey can overpower a pickle, so I recommend using it cautiously. Be prepared to have a darker pickle and a cloudy brine when you use honey or maple syrup. Honey in any form should not be given to babies younger than 1 year. When measuring these sweeteners, oil your measuring cup first, and the liquid will pour out easily.
VINEGAR-Here is one of the few exceptions to the rule of homemade is better. For pickling, it is best to use commercially made vinegars. Why? In order to sfely preserve your pickles, you must use a vinegar that contains 5 percent acetic acid, or has a 50 grain strength. A homemade vinegar may not be strong enough. Distilled white vinegar is the vinegar most commonly used in pickling because it is clear and does not color the pickle. This is particularly important when you are making cauliflower or Jerusalem artichoke pickles and you want that sharp white color to be emphasized. Distilled white vinegar has more of a bite than cider vinegar. Cider vinegar, made from apples, has a rich, somewhat mellow flavor. The preferred vinegar in many sweet pickles and chutneys, it will darken the pickle. Malt vinegar is an option in just a few of the pickle recipes. It is a more expensive vinegar and sometimes can be found only in specialty food shops. Made from cereal grains, it has a delicate flavor, almost sweet, and will darken pickles somewhat. It is okay to substitute one vinegar for another, as long as the vinegar contains 5 percent acetic acid (some flavored vinegars are only 2 to 3 percent acetic acid). Usually, it works better to substitute distilled white vinegar for cider or malt vinegar, than vice versa. Do not boil your vinegar solution beyond what the recipe requires. If the recipe says "simmer," do not boil hard. The acetic acid in vinegar will boil away over time; this weakens the preserving qualities of the brine. Never reduce the amount of vinegar called for in a recipe. If the brine is too sharp for your taste, add sugar.
WATER-Many cookbooks recommend that you make pickles with soft water only. Hard water can interfere with formation of lactic acid in fermented pickles and with curing in quick-pack pickles. To soften hard water, boil 15 minutes and let stand covered 24 hours; remove scum and sediment. Use this water to make pickles. The other option is to buy distilled water. I live in an area with hard water, and I don't have any problems with my pickles. I use tap water successfully. Chances are that you can, too. However, I have noticed a mineral residue in my canner from the hard water. This can be avoided by adding 1/2 cup vinegar to the water in the canner.